Modi’s Manikarnika Ghat Makeover | ‘Restoring’ Kashi Or Making A Budget Disneyland?
The ancient city of Varanasi, revered as Kashi and considered one of Hinduism’s holiest sites, is witnessing a transformation that has sparked intense controversy. At the center of the debate is Manikarnika Ghat, historically restored by Queen Ahilyabai Holkar in 1791, where bulldozers have begun demolishing structures in the name of redevelopment—a move that heritage activists and local residents are calling an assault on centuries of cultural heritage.
The Manikarnika Ghat Controversy
Manikarnika Ghat holds profound significance in Hindu tradition as one of the oldest and most sacred cremation grounds. The belief that dying in Kashi and being cremated at Manikarnika leads to salvation has drawn millions of Hindus to this site for centuries. Historical records, including 19th-century artworks by James Prinsep (1832) and C.J. Robinson (1910), showcase the ghat’s architectural glory and spiritual prominence.
According to reports, the current redevelopment has involved the demolition of ancient structures, with artifacts scattered and some statues submerged. The construction of what critics describe as an “ISBT bus stand”-like structure on the banks of the Ganga has drawn particular ire. The Khasgi Devi Ahilya Bai Holkar Charities Trust, supported by the Holkar family, has sought an investigation, alleging violations of heritage laws and calling the work an insult to India’s cultural and spiritual heritage.
Legal and Heritage Concerns
Heritage experts point to potential violations of the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains Act of 1958, which prohibits construction or demolition within 100 meters of historically significant monuments. They emphasize that at least 21 temples and numerous religious sites at Manikarnika Ghat require proper heritage impact assessment and consultation with archaeological experts.
The controversy extends beyond Manikarnika. The Kashi Vishwanath Corridor project, completed in recent years, already faced criticism after reports emerged that approximately 300 Shivlingas and multiple temples described in ancient texts were destroyed during construction. Rajendra Prasad Tiwari, former Mahant of the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, has stated on record that the Modi government has “destroyed more temples than Aurangzeb” and that the work was done ignoring Hindu beliefs, focusing instead on commercial enterprise.
Commercialization Versus Preservation
The tension between heritage preservation and religious tourism development reflects a broader debate about urban transformation in sacred cities. While proponents argue that infrastructure upgrades accommodate growing pilgrim footfall, critics contend that the approach reduces centuries-old spiritual architecture to what one commentator called “budget Disneyland”—a commercialized spectacle stripped of its authentic soul.
The comparison to restoration efforts at Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris and Angkor Wat in Cambodia has been invoked to illustrate alternative approaches. Following the 2019 fire, Notre-Dame is being restored to its original form using traditional techniques and materials, involving thousands of craftsmen and a billion dollars in investment—not converted into modern commercial structures.
Political Dimensions
As Varanasi’s Member of Parliament since 2014, Prime Minister Narendra Modi has championed the redevelopment efforts as part of a broader vision for Kashi’s transformation. Modi has frequently referred to hisconnection to the Ganga and the city, describing Mother Ganga as having “adopted” him. Yet the 2024 general election results showed his majority in Varanasi narrowing significantly, amid growing dissatisfaction with both Ganga pollution and the pace and nature of urban changes.
Local residents report feeling displaced and unheard. Families who performed rituals at specific ghat locations for generations claim demolitions occurred without consultation or proper information about rehabilitation plans. District administration warnings against posting “misleading information” on social media have drawn criticism as attempts to suppress dissent.
The Road Ahead
With legal challenges emerging and heritage organizations demanding transparency, the future of Manikarnika Ghat remains uncertain. The question confronting Varanasi—and India more broadly—is whether spiritual cities can modernize without erasing the very heritage that makes them sacred.
As one local sentiment expressed: “The Banaras and the ghats that are emerging along the banks of the Ganga are less Hindu and more Hindutva. The spires of Hinduism, its architectural beauty, its spirituality and soul are missing.”